Welcome back to our Ireland series! We recently left our stay at the Killarney Plaza. You can catch up on that journey [here]. Today, I am sharing a vital PSA about driving the Ring of Kerry.
If you are from the Midwest, you love wide-open roads. However, the Kingdom of Kerry is a different animal. I am very passionate about this. You should not be driving the Ring of Kerry yourself. We chose a Paddywagon Tour instead. It was truly the best decision of our trip.
Here’s why you should ditch the rental keys and let a pro take the wheel.
1. The “Driver’s Curse” (You Won’t See a Thing)
Irish backroads are narrow, winding, and bordered by ancient stone walls that feel like they’re closing in on you. If you’re the one driving, your eyes are glued to the white line or the ditch, praying you don’t clip a wing mirror.
While I was staring out the window at the sweeping views of Dingle Bay and the jagged Skellig Rocks, the poor souls in rental cars were white-knuckling it through “humps and hollows” that can bottom out a sedan. Locals call it the “Driver’s Curse”—the person behind the wheel is the only one who doesn’t get to see Ireland.
2. The Great “Bus Stand-off”
There is a “law of the land” on the Ring: the massive 50-passenger tour buses all travel counter-clockwise to keep traffic flowing. If you’re a tourist in a car trying to “beat the crowds” by going the other way, you will eventually meet a wall of buses on a blind curve.
When that happens, the bus isn’t backing up. You are. Save your nerves and your marriage—let a professional handle those hair-pin turns while you enjoy the scenery from a high-vantage window seat.
3. Local History and “The Goat King”
Our Paddywagon driver was a wealth of information. We learned about Killorglin. We heard about the “Puck Fair” where they crown a goat king! We saw the Charlie Chaplin statue in Waterville. We explored the colorful streets of Sneem. You won’t get this context while driving the Ring of Kerry alone.
For the record, there’s lots of tour bus, small groups, and private driver options for the Ring of Kerry.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW OPTIONS
4. The Logistics Win
Parking at spots like Ladies View or the Torc Waterfall is a nightmare in peak season. The lots are tiny. On a tour, you get dropped off right at the trailhead and picked up when you’re done. No circling the lot for 20 minutes while your blood pressure spikes. Plus, if you want to grab a quick pint of Guinness in a cozy village pub halfway through? You actually can.
The “Tour Bus Survival Kit”: What to Pack
If you’re hopping on a Paddywagon (or any tour), you aren’t just sitting on a bus; you’re out and about in the “four seasons in one day” Irish weather. Here is what I actually used:
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The “Irish Umbrella” (A Hooded Raincoat): Don’t even bother with a real umbrella—the Atlantic wind will turn it into a metal skeleton in five minutes. Bring a light, waterproof shell with a hood.
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Layers, Layers, Layers: You’ll be cozy on the bus, but it’s a wind-tunnel at the Coomakista Viewpoint. A fleece or a light sweater you can toss in your bag is a must.
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Portable Power Bank: Between the 4K videos of the cliffs and the constant GPS checking, your phone will be at 10% by lunch. Most buses don’t have reliable USB ports, so bring your own juice.
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Coins for the “Hidden” Spots: Some of the best stops, like the Staigue Stone Fort, are on private land and ask for a small “honesty box” donation (usually €1 or €2).
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Motion Sickness Meds: Even if you have an iron stomach, those Kerry curves are no joke. If you’re prone to carsickness, take something before the bus leaves Killarney.
“I’m Doing It Anyway”: Tips for the Brave Self-Drivers
Listen, I get it. Some of you want the freedom to stop and pet every single sheep you see. If you’re determined to drive the Ring of Kerry yourself, here is how to do it without losing your mind (or your rental deposit):
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Go Clockwise to Avoid the “Tail”: While the buses go counter-clockwise, some swear by going clockwise (starting toward Kenmare) so you aren’t stuck behind a slow-moving coach all day. Warning: This means you’ll face the buses head-on on narrow curves. If you aren’t great at reversing, stick to the bus’s “counter-clockwise” flow.
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The 8:00 AM Rule: If you aren’t on the road by 8:00 AM, you’ve already lost. Beating the first wave of tour buses gives you the “big” stops like Torc Waterfall all to yourself.
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Rent the Smallest Car Possible: Now is not the time for that “complimentary upgrade” to a massive SUV. You want a tiny car that can squeeze into a passing lane when a tractor comes the other way.
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Buy the “Super Collision” Insurance: Just do it. Between the stone walls and the narrow lanes, scratched rims and “clipped” mirrors are basically a rite of passage.
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Don’t Drive the “Gap of Dunloe”: Seriously. It’s a road, yes, but it’s meant for walkers and horse-carriages. Driving a car through there is the fastest way to get a “death stare” from a local farmer. Leave the car at Kate Kearney’s Cottage and walk it instead.
Final Thoughts
From the 18-meter drop of Torc Waterfall to the panoramic “pinch-me” views of the Wild Atlantic Way, the Ring of Kerry is a bucket-list item for a reason. Do yourself a favor: grab a window seat, let the guide do the talking, and leave the white-knuckle driving to the experts. Your vacation (and your rental car deposit) will thank you.
